Call last night from Steve for about 25 seconds until the phone died apparently for good. They were hiking down.; Bobbi, (Ben's wife) may call me with update as Ben had texted her with more details. No additional information was forthcoming last night but we slept well.
This am I got a phone call from Bobbi that they were down at 7000 feet , expected to fly out today to Anchorage today and hoped to be home by Thursday.
Bobbi and I planned our trip to Tahiti for next year. Danielle, are you available?
Sally
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Update on the teams
Here are updates from George's and Paul's blogs:
George's blog (6/1) - The GORCA team (Steve, Ben + George) made it today!!! Congratulations. They reached the summit at 7:30 PM after a 9 hour climb, stayed for a few minutes and decided that the below zero temps and +20 winds was enough and headed back to 17K. Good to be in the land of midnight sun for a long day of light and climbing. Paul decided to hold back given the near whiteout conditions. It was a 4 hour return trip and the team is tired and resting up.
Paul's blog (6/1) - We only had two possible summit days left, today and tomorrow (Monday). We really wanted to attempt the summit, especially after being at 17,200 foot camp for a week. After that much time, you think you are going out of your mind from boredom. Try to imagine what life would be like being stuck at high camp. You lay in your bed, eat only dehydrated food, without a shower and have little to do except stare at the ceiling for 16 hours per day for a week. It is a test of your sanity. It is the sacrifice mountain climbers have to make at times for that ever elusive summit. Of course, when you have been in a situation like this for a week, it adds significantly to your desire to reach the summit and go home.
In order to have enough food to summit and get to the bottom of the mountain, today and tomorrow were our only options for a summit. This obviously made us very determined to head to the summit today. However, we woke up to poor weather conditions. It was nothing but a cold, windy and a white out because of the snow. Regardless, we proceeded to get ready to summit while hoping for the weather to change. It did not change. We even got to the point of roping up. Meanwhile, I had a bad feeling in my gut. It kept getting stronger with each passing moment because of the the weather conditions. Finally, I told my teammates that I was not going to join them for the summit attempt. If they wanted to try for the summit that was ok with me. I was not comfortable with making the attempt in the white out conditions we were faced with. It was very tough to take a stand against the majority but I knew I was being true to my climbing phyolosophy. In addition, I was being true to the promises I made to my family and my wife. Hopfully, the weather is ideal tomorrow so I can reach the summit. For now, I know I made the right choice regardless of whether my partners make it to the top or not.
George's blog (6/2) - The GORCA team is planning to start the trek home today. They are looking forward to warmth, pizza and beer. It has been three weeks of zero-temps and tent-bound days and nights, time now to return to the comfort world.
No update from Paul yet to see if he was able to summit on 6/2.
Andy flew home on 6/2 and was in his own bed by 2 a.m. on 6/3. My knee is still swollen - may see an orthopedist. Peter was scheduled to fly home on a redeye, leaving Anchorage at 1 a.m. and getting to Salt Lake on 6/3.
- Andy
George's blog (6/1) - The GORCA team (Steve, Ben + George) made it today!!! Congratulations. They reached the summit at 7:30 PM after a 9 hour climb, stayed for a few minutes and decided that the below zero temps and +20 winds was enough and headed back to 17K. Good to be in the land of midnight sun for a long day of light and climbing. Paul decided to hold back given the near whiteout conditions. It was a 4 hour return trip and the team is tired and resting up.
Paul's blog (6/1) - We only had two possible summit days left, today and tomorrow (Monday). We really wanted to attempt the summit, especially after being at 17,200 foot camp for a week. After that much time, you think you are going out of your mind from boredom. Try to imagine what life would be like being stuck at high camp. You lay in your bed, eat only dehydrated food, without a shower and have little to do except stare at the ceiling for 16 hours per day for a week. It is a test of your sanity. It is the sacrifice mountain climbers have to make at times for that ever elusive summit. Of course, when you have been in a situation like this for a week, it adds significantly to your desire to reach the summit and go home.
In order to have enough food to summit and get to the bottom of the mountain, today and tomorrow were our only options for a summit. This obviously made us very determined to head to the summit today. However, we woke up to poor weather conditions. It was nothing but a cold, windy and a white out because of the snow. Regardless, we proceeded to get ready to summit while hoping for the weather to change. It did not change. We even got to the point of roping up. Meanwhile, I had a bad feeling in my gut. It kept getting stronger with each passing moment because of the the weather conditions. Finally, I told my teammates that I was not going to join them for the summit attempt. If they wanted to try for the summit that was ok with me. I was not comfortable with making the attempt in the white out conditions we were faced with. It was very tough to take a stand against the majority but I knew I was being true to my climbing phyolosophy. In addition, I was being true to the promises I made to my family and my wife. Hopfully, the weather is ideal tomorrow so I can reach the summit. For now, I know I made the right choice regardless of whether my partners make it to the top or not.
George's blog (6/2) - The GORCA team is planning to start the trek home today. They are looking forward to warmth, pizza and beer. It has been three weeks of zero-temps and tent-bound days and nights, time now to return to the comfort world.
No update from Paul yet to see if he was able to summit on 6/2.
Andy flew home on 6/2 and was in his own bed by 2 a.m. on 6/3. My knee is still swollen - may see an orthopedist. Peter was scheduled to fly home on a redeye, leaving Anchorage at 1 a.m. and getting to Salt Lake on 6/3.
- Andy
Monday, June 2, 2008
several phone calls
We got no messages last night. This morning we received 2 phone calls which immediately went dead. Then when we got home from school and work the phone had a message. " We summited yesterday!" They report they are on the way down. We expect a phone call later with details.
Sally
Sally
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Back in Talkeetna
Peter and Andy made it out to Talkeetna today. Peter came down from high camp at 11:30 on Saturday, picked up Andy and we hiked down to the 7,800 ft camp (a 9,000 foot descent for Peter and 6,000 for Andy). Andy's knee was a little wobbly and Peter had some ankle pain he has been fighting the whole trip, but we did OK. We got up early on Sunday and made it to base camp by noon today (after one last push up heartbreak hill). Unfortunately, it was total white out and snowing, so we thought we'd have to wait overnight at basecamp. But all of a sudden it cleared and multiple planes took nearly everyone down to Talkeetna. Now we've had a shower, a pizza and two beers and we're pretty happy. We weren't able to reach the other four on the radio, so we're hoping they are safe and get to the summit.
Andy and Peter
Andy and Peter
Saturday, May 31, 2008
17,000 foot camp
Call from Steve this morning. Steve , Ben, and George made it up to 17,000 yesterday after a very hard carry. They picked up the cache at 16,300 on the way, so packs were verry heavy.
Last night they choked down an awful freeze-dried dinner of chicken and dumplings. They brought 6 days of food with them, but hope it will be extra. They slept reasonably well.
Peter summited yesterday and headed down today to 14,000 where he will meet up with Andy and they will hike out together.
Paul started out with Peter, but got cold hands and for safety turned back. He plans to go up with the other 3 tommorrow, weather permitting. Today is a beautiful day so they considered going for the summit today, but they were all tired due to the trip yesterday and we hope for another day of good weather tommorrow. Packs will be as light as possible on the way to the top.
Sally
Last night they choked down an awful freeze-dried dinner of chicken and dumplings. They brought 6 days of food with them, but hope it will be extra. They slept reasonably well.
Peter summited yesterday and headed down today to 14,000 where he will meet up with Andy and they will hike out together.
Paul started out with Peter, but got cold hands and for safety turned back. He plans to go up with the other 3 tommorrow, weather permitting. Today is a beautiful day so they considered going for the summit today, but they were all tired due to the trip yesterday and we hope for another day of good weather tommorrow. Packs will be as light as possible on the way to the top.
Sally
Friday, May 30, 2008
The team splits
When Andy called this morning, Peter and Paul were heading up to the summit. GORCA (Steve, Ben and George) were heading to high camp (17,000). Andy is feeling really good, but they all decided that it was safer if he did not go for high camp. Even though his knee is a lot better, the headwall is very steep and strenuous, and there is no margin for error. Also, since he was unable to take a cache up to 16,300 when the others did, his load would be unrealistically heavy. He is a little disappointed but safety comes first. GORCA may be able to summit by Sunday or Monday. Andy hopes to join Peter and Paul as they descend and come home earlier.
Danielle
Danielle
May 29th update delayed blog entry
Steve called last night with news of plans and little else. Ben, George and Steve are planning to go to 17,000 foot camp today. Paul and Peter are hoping to go to the summit. Weather is looking better for today. The weekend may remain windy, but predictions are better on Monday.
Sally
Sally
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